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Day 2: LRC & My First Flash

Well, we got a late start after a late night in Chattanooga.  Nick and I thanked Mark and Cindy for their hospitality, packed our gear back into the car, and headed for a place to eat.

Parking Lot Picnic

John at Bi-Lo'sWe had enough food packed for the week, so we decided to find a big parking lot to setup kitchen.  There was a nice big Bi-Lo’s just outside of downtown that had a quiet loading area.  We parked the Civic there and unloaded our cooking gear.  We had a Coleman PerfectFlow 2-Burner Stove for cooking our egg, cheese and mushroom omelets, and a Coleman 1-Burner Propane Stove for boiling hot water for tea and coffee.  We also slapped together some peanut butter sandwiches.

We had a few passers-by that gave us funny looks, and one group that jokingly asked if they could join us for lunch. This was our first parking lot picnic and it was a success!  No one tried to kick us out, and our fresh cookin’ was quite tasty!  Thanks Bi-Lo.

Back to LRC

It was some time after noon when we finally made it back to Little Rock City.  We hurried up, checked in, and ran back into the boulder field like little kids.  We decided to walk further into the field, knowing that we had a lot more time to explore this time around.  We found a couple of problems that we identified by chalk markings.  We gave them a go, but we were unable to get very far :(  We were still unsure of the problems, and we didn’t know if we were on a V1 or a V16…

We ended up searching around and trying a few other problems.  Eventually we decided to head back to the entrance of the boulder field to retry the problems we worked the night before.  I managed to get three quarters of the way up one of the high problems, but nearing 15ft high and unsure of where to go next I ended up backing down 2 times.  I never realized how high some of the boulders could get.  You never get to top out at the indoor rock wall, and I think the highest you ever get is about 10ft above the mats.

We found another group of climbers and worked a hard problem with them.  The one guy was a local and he nailed this V5 like it was nothing.  It’s amazing to watch the way experienced climbers move.  Their motion is very fluid and purposeful.  I know I catch myself jerking around a lot trying to force moves instead of using my balance.  I guess this will come with practice.

My First Flash

Later in the day we came to a nice high boulder with tons of good holds.  I’m not even sure if there was a set problem.  If there was it was probably a V0, but I was tired of not getting in more than a couple of moves so I gave this bad boy a go.

Big BoulderThe start of the problem was easy.  There were a bunch of sharp jugs that went in a diagonal up the rock face.  About half way up there were some slopers and pinch holds.  When I was about 5 feet from the top most of the obvious holds ran out.  I wasn’t sure where to go next and I was starting to tire out.  I looked down at Nick and realized I was pretty high up.  I didn’t want to jump from where I was, so I thought about down climbing for a second.

Nick encouraged me and I just went for it.  I’m not even sure what I grabbed onto.  I slapped my hands onto some slopers that didn’t look like they were possible to hold onto, but I managed to stick.  Those last few feet gave me a nice adrenaline rush.  If I would have slipped at that point I would have dropped close to 20ft.  Our little crash pad didn’t reassure me that I would have a safe fall.  Well, I managed to pull my self to the top and I was psyched!  I finally topped out my first boulder and flashed a problem.  Like I said, it was probably a V0, but it was a high one :)

Climb On

Nick ended up getting to the top of the same boulder from another route.  But when he got to the top he was worn out.  His arms were on the top of the boulder in front of him and there was nothing to grab onto.  I was doing my best to spot him, but there was not much I could have done if he fell other than try to push his body onto the crash pad.  Nick managed to down climb several feet and he launched off and landed safely on the pad.

We worked a few more routes before it got dark.  We left exhausted but hungry for more.  I can’t wait to climb outdoors again!

Q: Do any of you climbers out there remember your first time bouldering on real rock?  What was your experience like? Was it what you expected or were you surprised?

Wal-Mart Parking Lot

We ended up avoiding one night in a Wal-Mart parking lot, thanks to Mark and Cindy.  But on our second night in Chattanooga, TN we decided on giving the parking lot a shot.

It turned out to be a good night.  We played some Scrabble Slam and Boggle, and after reading Urban Climber Magazine we wend to bed.  I was a little uncomfortable at first, but after covering my head with a sweat shirt I fell fast asleep.  Thanks Wal-Mart!

And so closes Day 2…

Related Posts

Southern Bouldering Trip: Day 1
Southern Bouldering Trip: Day 3

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Little Rock City and Downtown Chattanooga

Wow!  Chattanooga Rocks!  Nick and I had such a blast on our trip down South.

Day 1

Cincinnati SkylineWe woke up at 4am, ate some food, packed up the car and left Bowling Green, OH for Chattanooga, TN.  It was a good long 9 hour drive.  We went through Dayton and Cincinnati, Ohio.  I’ve never been to Cinci.  There is an awesome view of downtown when you’re heading north on I-75.  That was enough to convince me to give it a visit in the future.

Hello Chattanooga

We arrived in Chattanooga around 2:30pm.  Our first stop was Tim’s house.  Tim and his wife are both great climbers, but since having 2 kids and some injuries, they have decided to focus on bicycling for the time being.  So Tim sold us one of his nice crash pads and some chalk for our bouldering trip at a really great price.  He also let us borrow some bouldering guidebooks from the Tripple Crown Bouldering Series, that way we could find our way around.  Thanks again Tim!

Little Rock City

After getting the last of our gear we raced to make it to Little Rock City before nightfall.  We arrived at the Montlake Golf Course at 4pm (sunset was 5:30pm).  We rushed to get our gear together, signed in at the club house and ran into the LRC boulder field that borders the course.

Once there, we were both simultaneously excited and at a loss.  Use to little colored tape markings on our routes at the indoor rock wall, we had a hard time locating boulder problems.  Luckily some friendly local climbers showed us the way.

We jumped on a couple of “easy” routes, some V0 / V1’s.  Well the first one was more difficult than expected.  The friction was great with the cool dry air, but it was just so different.  Nick managed to flash the second route that we tried, while I was still having a hard time.  I went back to the first route and made some progress.  We started playing around on another route and then the night quickly settled in.

Downtown Chatta

After our short, but exciting, bouldering experience we decided to go into downtown Chattanooga to get some food and drink.  We took The CragBaby’s advice and decided to check out the Tremont Tavern and it’s famous burgers.  CragBaby was right about the burgers!  They were huge and amazing.  Tremont Tavern also carried a large variety of beer that I never heard of.  There was a tasty Terrapin “Side Project Pumpkinfest” that was on specia, and your first glass was free!

The best part of Chattanooga was the people.  Everyone was friendly and talked to you like you were their long lost brother.  We met Pete, who just graduated with his MBA from the University of Georgia in Athens, GA.  He told us of his hard time trying to find a job in Chattanooga, some of his business ideas, and he helped us find out if the road to Rock Town, GA was repaved after being recently washed out.  We found out that it was, but we never made it. I’ll get to that later.

Then we met Mark and Cindy, two artists and teachers, who recently moved to Chattanooga.  We found out that they were originally from Toledo, OH and Michigan.  Mark new all about Bowling Green so we were quick to hit it off.  We had a few drinks and enjoyed the great company.

At some point Mark asked where we were staying that night.  Due to the lack of good camping sites in the area we decided to sleep in the car in a Wal-Mart parking lot.  Mark and Cindy joked with us about how cold it was going to get that night.  When we were ready to leave they offered us a place to stay at their home a few miles down the road.  After walking through the cold to another bar we decided to take them up on it!

Thanks Mark and Cindy!!!

Nick and I ended up staying up late with Mark listening to music we never heard of, checking out his art, and talking about Toledo and Chattanooga.  Thanks for the musical education Mark!  I never knew Jimi Hendrix had a Christmas album, and the Avett Brothers rock!

They offered us blankets, pillows, coffee and much needed showers. Thanks again Mark and Cindy!  Your place really beat the Wal-Mart parking lot :)

You can check out some of Mark’s art at www.mL2001.com.

Day 2 Coming Soon!

Related Links

Little Rock City
The CragBaby
Tremont Tavern
Terrapin Brewery
Marks Art

Related Posts

Southern Bouldering Trip: Day 2
Southern Bouldering Trip: Day 3

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Bouldering is a Lifesyle

What is bouldering you ask?  Does it have something to do with rolling rocks down a hillside?  Well no, but that’s kinda half right.  It does have to do with rocks, BIG rocks!

Bouldering

Bouldering 1Bouldering is a type of rock climbing that usually takes place well below 20ft.  It is geared toward hard moves and technique instead of the endurance required for long sports or trad climbs.  Some climbers boulder as a form of practice for higher and longer climbs.  But there is a large group of climbers that choose bouldering as their main style of climbing.

Why Boulder?

Bouldering is one of the most intense and enjoyable workouts that you will ever experience.  You really need to be in tune with your body and mind when you climb.  There is a reason that they call bouldering routes “problems”.  They may be short, but they require very specific and precise movements to complete them.  You become very aware of your body position and your balance.  The success of completing a hard problem keeps you motivated and coming back for more.

Bouldering is great, even for beginners, because it requires little investment in gear and less danger from a high fall than one could experience in other forms of climbing.  It still holds its dangers, of course, like falling from six feet and hitting your head off of a rock.  Ouch!  But with proper safety, these kind of injuries can be avoided.

Bouldering GearMost boulderers only have a chalk bag, a pair of climbing shoes, and a crash pad.

  • The chalk is used for keeping ones hands dry.  When your hands get sweaty or wet, climbing certain types of rock can become very difficult.
  • Climbing shoes are made with special rubber that is durable and sticky in comparison to your everyday kicks.
  • A crash pad is a thick piece of foam that works great for softening your fall.  Even though you may not be very high above the ground, many times your body is horizontal, or even upside-down.  Falling from those positions can be dangerous on rough terrain without a pad.

Bouldering 2Bouldering connects you with nature.  Of course you can boulder indoors at most climbing gyms, there are even huge gyms dedicated specifically to bouldering, but bouldering outdoors is where the magic happens.  It’s a time where you can leave behind technology and your everyday worries.  It’s a time to take in the world around you.  And it’s a great way to connect with the raw physical forces of the universe.  Man, one with rock.

Bouldering is also a great way to meet new and interesting people.  In the short amount of time that I have spent climbing I have found that other climbers are some of the friendliest and most helpful people that I have met.  You could be climbing a new route and someone that you never met will begin giving you encouragement and suggestions.  The passion for climbing is a glue that quickly builds bonds between fellow climbers.

Bouldering Videos!

Believe it or not, there are tons of great bouldering and climbing videos out there.  Most of them are also made using great style and technique.  For bouldering specific videos check out www.modump.com.  For all kinds of climbing videos check out www.ucmag.tv.  You can also search climbing and bouldering on YouTube and Vimeo and find plenty of great videos!

Here is one of my favorite Vimeo videos by sébastien montaz-rosset:

Where to Boulder

There are many places to go bouldering around the country and around the world!  You can start by finding a nearby climbing gym.  It’s a great way to get some climbing experience and meet people that know where good outdoor climbing is available.  This website, www.indoorclimbing.com, is a great reference for indoor gyms.

Unless you live in the middle of the Great Plains you are probably within a few minutes to a couple of hours of a great outdoor bouldering location.  Do a web search for your area and climbing or bouldering to find information on great locations.  Finding outdoor sites is where those friends you made at the gym can come in handy :)  Oh, yeah, and remember to obey trespassing laws.  Do not climb on private property without written permission!

Traventure Down South

The South East is a great area for winter climbing.  In fact that is where my friend Nick and I are going this week.  The temperature will be in the low 50s during the day and dip into the low 30s at night.  The colder the temperature, the better the friction on the rock.  We are going to go to Little Rock City in Tennessee and Horse Pens 40 in Alabama.  We are super exited to climb outdoors and meet some great people.  We will probably also check out some of the sites in Chattanooga and perhaps Birmingham.  So make sure to check back this week for posts, pictures and maybe some video :)

Call to action!!!

Stop sitting around and plan your first climbing experience!!!  See you on the rocks!

*Note:  The photos of climbers used on this site come from Google Images.  I do not own the rights to them and I’m using them for illustration only.  If you find that I am using your photos and you would like me to take them down, please let me know.  If not, send me your name and website and I’ll give you credit.  Thanks in advance :)

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